Day 5: Esposende to Viana do Costelo (18.2 miles)

Walking the Camino

Today we discovered new layers of Portugal, heard stories from fellow pilgrims, tested out our rain gear (because, well, it rained), and found joy in small moments.

First, the trek. We moved ever so slightly off the coast as we continued our way north. There we found old world towns, miles of the most beautiful walls adorned with moss, lichen, flowers and plants, small farm gardens, and oh so cute sheep.

Next thing we knew we were walking a forest trail along rivers, boulders, and waterfalls. It felt like we were on a Pacific northwest hike, except with a mix of tropical and temperate flora. So interesting.

As for people moments, we met "Houston" (my name for the man from Houston). Let's just say he was very Texan. He and his wife stopped at many of the cathedrals. As Catholics, this was central to their walk experience.

It occurred to us that the path marked out passes by many chapels and cathedrals. Some went it. Others like us appreciated the beauty (many are set in a square or themselves create a nice open space) and walked on.

Houston's lovely wife loved to stop, take pictures, and smell the roses. He was always 10 feet in front of her. He confessed to us, "We're so different. I'm a Porsche, I want to go go." He even noted after I checked on Jessica about our pace, 'I'd never ask that!"

As we walked and talked more he seemed to soften. Soon we found them walking together, hand in hand. Jess and I did a fist bump. It felt like just maybe we had spread a little Camino spirit :)

We arrived in Viana around 4:00pm sore (Jess) and hungry (me). We hadn't eaten since a small breakfast at 7:30 and hadn't rested for awhile. We were both out of juice. Most restaurants are closed 4-7 it turns out. We found something eventually... after more time and more walking around. We'll need to pay more attention to mapping our food going forward, and keep taking breaks.

At day's end we found a sporting supply store. Jessica bought walking poles and we both got insoles for more support. We agreed that any investment in foot care is a good one. We also agreed that we deserved an ice cream.

Adding one more quick story that speaks to Camino people and purpose.

We came by a friendly lady from Wisconsin about mid-day. She was alone and walking at a brisk pace. After some chitchat she asked us the why question,

"What brings you to the Camino?"

I shared something like... it's been on the radar for years... we watched a documentary together a couple years back and talked about doing it... I'm in semi-retirement and exploring what this next chapter means...

When I asked her the same question, she said, "Forgiveness."

Pause

"But I won't go into that now. And retirement."

She then said she shares something with everyone she has a conversation with, and gave us each two of these momentos. Then she was off again as quickly as she came. Such a lovely moment.

There is a deeper meaning to this journey for many who take it.